Anh Hong No.9 Black Tea

Red tea came later than green, in Fujian (Lapsang Souchong is held to be its ancestor), and went on to conquer the world. Vietnam has its own red-tea tradition in Phu Tho, Lam Dong and the Shan Tuyet highlands of the north-west.

Ancient Shan Tuyet trees worked in the red-tea style yield a character all their own: honeyed, deep with mountain savour, quite unlike lowland red teas.

The liquor runs red-brown to amber, ringed with gold in a fine cup. The aroma calls up honey, longan, dried flowers, cocoa, sometimes roasted sweet potato.

The taste is full and round, clearly sweet on the finish, with little astringency when brewed well. This is the tea for a hot early morning — and the base of milk tea and the Western afternoon.

The process is withering, firm rolling to rupture the leaf cells, then “oxidising” in a warm, humid environment — the decisive step that turns the green leaf red-brown and gives rise to its signature sweetness.

Finally, drying halts oxidation and sets the aroma. The degree of rolling and the length of oxidation decide whether the tea leans elegant or robust.

Red tea is the most forgiving to the brewer: full boiling water, easy on timing. Drink it plain to meet its true flavour, or add a little milk, honey or ginger to taste.

A warm pot of red tea is a morning greeting, the glue of slow conversation — the tea of warmth and of sharing.